If you're reading this, you're likely considering a trip to Newfoundland. You don’t need convincing why this eastern province of Canada deserves attention. Here, you’ll find not just practical tips but also personal impressions, presented as a lively narrative.
We’ve structured our experiences in a Q&A format, as if interviewing ourselves.
When did we first visit Newfoundland?
Our first trip to Newfoundland was nine years ago, in the summer of 2015. We detailed that journey in our post How to see icebergs in Canada? Trip to Newfoundland.
What inspired us to return?
The first trip focused on icebergs and the island's western side. This time, our goal was to see Atlantic puffins in the wild. They nest in eastern Newfoundland, which meant a cross-island adventure.
When and how long was our 2024 trip?
This year’s journey spanned Wednesday, June 19, to Sunday, June 30. We spent seven full days on the island, from June 22 to June 29.
How did we get there?
As before, we traveled in our own car, combining the drive with a ferry crossing. Detailed information about the ferry can be found in our post about icebergs, which remains relevant.
The route from our home to North Sydney, Nova Scotia - where the ferry departs - is 1,400 km. While doable in a single day with two drivers (as we proved on the way back), we opted for an overnight stop in Fredericton, New Brunswick, covering about 1,000 km on day one.
Travel tip
If you're planning a trip to Newfoundland and intend to use the ferry, check the carrier's website Marine Atlantic early in the spring. You might snag a discounted ticket, as we did! In March 2024, we booked tickets 25% off.🙂
How often does the ferry to Newfoundland run?
The ferry operates twice a day, but there are some details to consider. There are two routes: the first goes to Port aux Basques (on the island's west side) and takes about 7 hours, while the second heads to Argentia (on the east side) and lasts 14 hours. The Argentia route is roughly twice as expensive, so your choice will depend on your priorities.
We opted for the same route as our first trip: the overnight ferry to Port aux Basques. In the first 1:47 of our video, you can see what the ferry and boarding process look like.
Did we encounter any difficulties finding or booking accommodations?
We usually don’t book hotels in advance, preferring to find lodging along the way. This element of spontaneity often adds unexpected twists to the journey, which sometimes turn out to be the most memorable parts of the trip.
This time, we were especially impressed by our stay at Parsons Garden B&B in the town of Baie Verte. The experience was so unique and unforgettable that it deserves a story of its own.
The Magic of Hospitality at Parsons Garden B&B
Website: Parsons Garden B&B
Parsons Garden B&B Facebook Contact Carolina and Richard
Address: 97A Water st, Baie Verte, NL, Canada, Newfoundland and Labrador
From the moment we made our reservation until the day we left, we were enveloped by the warmth and kindness of Carolina and Richard. After our first trip to Newfoundland, we already knew its residents were special—simple, open, kind-hearted, and always ready to lend a hand. This is one of the reasons we’re drawn back to this island again and again. Carolina and Richard, however, were the embodiment of everything we’ve come to love about Newfoundlanders.
Richard warmly welcomed us and led us through the cozy living room to our room with the name - "Polar Bear".
The spotless cleanliness and meticulous attention to detail struck us as soon as we walked in. Their cozy living room shelves were lined with books, travel guides, and even a dictionary of the unique "Newfoundland" English, which, to be honest, isn’t easy to understand. We did manage to learn a few words: "Newfie" — how the locals affectionately refer to themselves and other islanders — and "CFA" (Come From Away) - a term for outsiders like us.
We spent the evening in a spacious gazebo, where the warmth of the gas fire bowl created a cozy atmosphere, and before us stretched a green lawn and a lake. The moment was so calm and soothing that it felt as though time had momentarily stopped.
In the morning, we were treated to a true Newfoundland breakfast prepared by Richard, while Carolina surprised us with a delicious cappuccino. It was so good I couldn’t resist asking for seconds. The coffee, locally roasted and infused with maple syrup, was so magical that we later searched for it at Costco in the capital, St. John’s.
Perhaps the highlight of the morning wasn’t the food, but the conversation. We love meeting new people, and over breakfast, we were completely immersed in a warm and lively exchange with our incredible hosts. Carolina and Richard are not just hosts but guardians of Newfoundland’s heart and soul. Our encounter with them became one of the most memorable moments of the entire trip.
Did we see icebergs in Newfoundland?
Yes, we did. Although during our first trip in 2015, there were far more of them, and they seemed to be everywhere. However, this time, we didn’t set out to chase after icebergs.
That said, while heading to our stay at Parsons Garden B&B, we checked the iceberg map and noticed one was near Baie Verte. Naturally, we couldn’t resist detouring slightly to catch a glimpse.
The next day, we visited again to bid farewell to the iceberg. Its shape had changed overnight and now resembled a sleeping lion.
Most other icebergs were farther north, beyond our planned route, but even this single encounter with such a majestic natural wonder left us with lasting memories.
Did we get to see puffins? If yes, where?
Website: Bird Island, Elliston
Address: Elliston Puffin Viewing Site
Elliston is a famous spot where puffins come to nest and one of the best places in Newfoundland for observing them.
Visiting Bird Island is completely free, although there is a small donation box at the entrance if you'd like to support the initiative. There's a small parking lot nearby, and it's about a 10-15 minute walk to the puffin island, of course, if you're not distracted by the surrounding beauty. Our return journey took almost an hour! The views around were simply mesmerizing: the lush meadows, the vast ocean, and the sunny weather made every step a true delight. We just couldn't resist taking photos.
A special discovery was realizing the size of the puffins. Before this encounter, we thought they were larger than they actually are. In reality, these birds are about three times smaller than seagulls, which makes them even more charming.
If you're interested, we've prepared a photo album featuring puffins, where you can see these "flying puffballs" in all their glory.
Travel tip
For this trip, we specifically got binoculars to fully enjoy observing the puffins. And you know what? We keep wondering why we didn't do this earlier! This essential tool opened a whole new level of experience. It’s impossible to take your eyes off it.
The binoculars turned out to be useful not only for puffins. On the ferries, they became our faithful companion, and later, sitting by the shore and enjoying the ocean views in Bonavista, they gave us a completely unexpected sight — whales swimming in the distance. Without binoculars, this moment would have passed unnoticed, but with them, it became one of the most memorable moments of our trip.
What stood out to us from the gastronomy?
To start with the most thematic, let's talk about The Puffin Café.
Website: The Puffin Café
Address: 9 Sandy Cove Rd, Elliston, NL
This cozy spot is located right on the way to or from Bird Island — you can't miss it. They serve amazing homemade food: the liver with onions literally made our day! And if you want to try something exotic, like a moose burger, we highly recommend it. The café is run by just two women — one cooks, and the other serves. True heroines!
In the capital, St. John's, we were won over by the Yellow Belly Brewery.
Website: https://www.yellowbellybrewery.com/
Address: 288 Water Street, St. John's NL
This place was recommended to us by a friend who had lived in the capital of Newfoundland for a long time, and we were thrilled. They brew their own beer, which you can try on-site or buy in cans to take away. The food is outstanding! Our choice — Short Rib Dinner and the Four Cheese Chicken Caesar pizza — was absolutely delicious.
Another atmospheric opening is Port Rexton Brewery in the town of the same name.
Website: https://www.portrextonbrewing.com/
Address: 6 Ship's Cv Rd, Port Rexton, NL
We ended up here completely by chance: we noticed a line of cars along the road and heard live country music. Although we had just had lunch, we decided to stop by "for five minutes". In the end, we stayed for two hours! The beer was really good, and the atmosphere was fantastic: a large wooden terrace, perfect for a sunny day. We can't comment on the food, but the place itself is ideal for relaxation. By the way, they deliver their beer all over Canada.
And of course, we can't forget to mention the cod (Atlantic Cod). In Newfoundland, it seems that every restaurant is an expert in preparing it. If you're unsure what to choose from the menu, go for the cod. It's a foolproof option: delicious, fresh, and you'll probably ask for a second helping!
What unexpected twists and turns made our trip unforgettable?
One of the most memorable surprises was meeting a Newfoundland musician, Len O'Neill. Thanks to him, we ended up staying in Port Rexton Brewery for two hours. It turned out we had arrived just in time for the start of Len O'Neill's Canadian tour! To skip ahead, we’ll say that this encounter continued to inspire us: upon returning home, we attended two of his concerts in Montreal. We truly enjoyed Len O'Neill—his guitar, straightforward and sincere style, and melodies that stay with you from the first listen. On our way back across the island, we listened to his songs, which perfectly complemented the Newfoundland landscapes. In his music, as with the island's residents, there’s a lot of sincerity and warmth.
But not all surprises were pleasant. On the way back, our ferry was delayed from 11:45 PM to 3:15 AM. So, we had to drive through the deserted Newfoundland roads at night, where the darkness is so thick that high beams are almost useless. While overtaking a car, we narrowly spotted a moose slowly crossing the highway! We slammed on the brakes, but the animal hit the car we were passing. Everyone stopped. We approached the driver to check if everything was okay. Fortunately, neither he nor his passenger were injured—the moose only knocked off the side mirror, and to our surprise, ran off.
The remaining 150 kilometers were the most stressful of our lives. We drove no faster than 80 km/h, both of us scanning the sides of the road, and only near the ferry did we manage to relax a bit.
Fortunately, we also had a more pleasant experience with a moose. A few days earlier, we saw one on a country road during the day and had time to stop and admire it. This was much less dramatic, and even amusing.
Before this trip, we had never seen a moose, but now we have two experiences - one thrilling, the other nerve-wracking. And honestly, we’re fine with that!
What did we manage to see that is probably impossible to repeat?
Upon arriving in Elliston, we witnessed a sunset of incredible beauty. In the distance, rain was falling, and as the sunlight refracted through the raindrops, it created a unique effect. The sky shimmered with shades from deep yellow to rich red, as if the landscape had been painted with watercolors.
We had already seen a beautiful sunset on Grand-Manan Island a few years ago, but this one was special. It's hard to imagine that it could be done again.
Where did we stop for just five minutes but ended up staying for three hours?
While in the capital of Newfoundland, we simply couldn’t miss the chance to visit the easternmost point of Canada and all of North America — Cape Spear. It’s the place where the first rays of sunrise greet the continent!
Website: https://parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/nl/spear
Address: Blackhead Road, Cape Spear, St. John's, NL
The weather, however, didn’t exactly delight us: it was drizzling, and the ocean was shrouded in thick fog. It seemed like we wouldn’t stay there long. But, as often happens in Canada, nature took over. Even in the rain, Cape Spear captivates with its atmosphere. The raging ocean, visible right at the shore, seemed to pull the eye, while the roar of the waves filled the space with an inexplicable power.
And, of course, the lighthouses! We have a special love for lighthouses, and this one, standing on a cliff, looks particularly majestic. By the way, the photos in bad weather turned out even more expressive than under clear skies—they have more drama and depth.
But Cape Spear is not just nature. It’s also history. Here, you can literally walk in the footsteps of the past: explore bunkers, cannons, and learn many fascinating facts about the role of this fort in World War II. We didn’t even notice how three hours flew by!
Just for fun, we took a screenshot to see how long it takes to get to the ferry from the easternmost point of Canada.😊
Did we go hiking?
Yes, we ended up going on an unplanned hike. It happened completely spontaneously: the morning was cloudy, with fog rolling in from the ocean, and we hadn't planned on doing any long walks. But along the way, we saw a sign for Skerwink Trail, checked the forecast—no rain expected—and decided to go for it.
Website: Skerwink Trail
Address: Parking for Skerwink Trail
And we didn't regret it! Despite the gray weather, there are some advantages. First, foggy conditions make the photos atmospheric and unique, especially if you enjoy unconventional shots. Second, there were almost no people on the trail, which made the walk particularly enjoyable.
The trail itself turned out to be surprisingly scenic and far from boring. It immediately became one of our favourite routes. We were really impressed!
What did we visit and learn new?
On the way back, we stopped at the North Atlantic Aviation Museum, located in the town of Gander right by the highway.
Website: https://northatlanticaviationmuseum.com/
Address: 135 Trans-Canada Hwy, Gander, NL
It turned out to be a great place to take a break on the long road to the ferry and spend an hour not only enjoying but also learning something valuable.
At one time, the airport in Gander was a major transatlantic hub. Almost all the planes crossing the ocean made a stop here to refuel. The museum holds many stories related to outstanding personalities who visited Gander. For example, it was here that Fidel Castro first saw snow, and Yuri Gagarin was welcomed with special hospitality — you can even listen to an audio recording about this.
A special place in the exhibit is dedicated to the role Newfoundland played during the September 11 tragedy. Gander became a refuge for thousands of people who were in the air when the whole world stood still in horror. Reading the testimonies and gratitude from passengers, you realize how caring, kind, and selfless the people of this island are.
Would we like to return to Newfoundland?
Definitely yes! We dream of seeing whales in their majestic natural habitat, feeling the breath of the ocean, and once again immersing ourselves in the boundless sea of warmth that makes Newfoundland such a special place.
Each trip there feels like a breath of fresh air, filled with simplicity, kindness, and natural beauty. We increasingly understand those who came once and decided to stay. Newfoundland pulls you in like a magical lighthouse, and we are sure that we will return!
Finally, we offer you a small selection of photos that capture the beauty and atmosphere of Newfoundland.
